Restaurant Rockers: The Six Serves Up Bold New Flavors And Radically Remixed Favorites
Our latest culinary adventure brought us to the new restaurant The Six, which took over the longtime location of Jack Sprat’s Grille in West LA. We sat down with owners Will Karges and Jake King and got the full story on what we consider to be the first essential new restaurant of the decade.
While this marks the fourth foray for the duo, it’s the first as sole proprietors and they have literally put their blood, sweat and tears (not to mention maxed out credit cards) into reinventing this cozy space as The Six.
In an surprising move, they didn’t even close down Jack Sprat’s and instead operated that restaurant by day while turning their passion project to a reality by night.
“It was love at first sight,” Will told us. “The minute we walked in, we started negotiating with all the vendors that day, so it was a mess for the first four days. We were going to all the local farmer’s markets, just juggling things, and then from midnight until five in the morning, we had a contract crew here every single night to do this.”
Jake then added, “We really wanted to learn the neighborhood. We knew that this was not a Sunset Boulevard or Abbot Kinney type of draw, and we knew that the last thing that we wanted to do was get on the bad side of the neighborhood. So we carried through with their menu and slowly made some simple changes from there and it worked out in the end.”
They were able to accomplish what few could even dare dream because they’ve been here before. Will has been in the business since he was twenty-two years old, and now forty-six, he can remember his start clearer than ever.
“I opened my first restaurant in Malibu,” he recalled. “My dad, who had never given me a dime in my life, gave me thirty thousand dollars to open it. So I got a cash register, a deli case and a pizza oven and all my surfer friends would come in.”
He then added, “With some elbow grease, that thirty thousand became fifteen restaurants.” From Johnnie’s Pizzeria to Jones Hollywood, Will has been the driving force behind many Hollywood mainstays.
Food was his passion and he had been exposed to it all of his life, as his father owned a restaurant and raised him on fine dining.
“My Dad was really cool, he’d drive thirty miles to get a better tomato because they didn’t have it at Albertsons or Ralph’s,” Will said.
I don’t think I remember a sit home meal. He took us out to dinner a lot, so I had eaten fois gras at the age of three. I was adventurous.
“Will’s the true foodie of the partnership,” Jake said. “We’ve been partners for along time but he’s the one who’s really mastered that whole food game.”
Will and his hand-picked Head Chef David Gussin have crafted a spectacular and thankfully affordable menu. It’s one that features radical re-interpretations on childhood favorites, like the Sloppy Joe, a collection of innovative pizzas (all with Will’s famous crust) and of course exciting new concoctions like the Banh Mi Burger. This special dish is also what landed the twenty-four year old David here, where he beat out over twenty-five hopefuls for the highly-coveted job.
“Here’s what I did with all the chefs,” Will explained. “I had them make our signature Banh Mi Burger, because I wanted to see each interpretation, but I also wanted them to incorporate brazed pork belly, to augment the flavor. David blew everyone away by far.”
Will also loves to surround himself with exciting new talent, and the staff he’s assembled at The Six indicates that.
“Young talent for me is essential. Youthful energy is great to be around and is contagious,” He said.
I really just love to think outside the box, so there’s a lot of creativity. It’s a collaboration, we all have a voice in this place and that’s the best way to communicate.
It’s this sustained passion among the staff that spills over to each plate. We started our journey off with David’s play on the traditional Italian salad that featured red wine marinated figs and we soon followed that with a crispy chicken thigh that came served over an apple and butternut-squash hash.
I became particularly enamored of the shaved brussels sprout salad, which came loaded with satsumas, almonds and a spiced apple-cider vinaigrette that had me re-thinking the way I have had my long-standing disdain for the normally bland vegetable.
“Its a little sexier than your standard salad,” David said. “I’m crazy!”
Will soon turned the tables on us by showcasing his “culmination of twenty-five years of pizza-ology.”
“I’ll throw down a pizza that will blow your fuckin’ heads off,” he laughed. And he was right. When they arrived, Will even showed us his personal pizza test, by holding a fresh piece in the air, which did not sog nor drip from grease.
With one bite into these heavenly slices, it was clear to us that the mad scientist’s work in the lab had really paid off.
“We have a special mixture of flours that we use to get a certain gluten level which gives it a pretty special texture.
Not to mention full flavor and combinations that would make any person think twice about calling the Papa over again.
“Some people have the BLT, well this is a BBT. Bacon, basil and tomato pizza,” David said. “It’s oven roasted and real high quality with a special basil, so it’s simple and straight forward but the flavors go really well together.”
The other pie was something right out of the food fantasies of the SmokeOut Festival faithful.
“I call this pizza the stoned person’s special because it’s got onion strings on top and you would have to be stoned to come up with that idea,” David laughed. “But ironically enough I don’t do any drugs.”
As for that aforementioned Sloppy Joe that I had heard so much about? Truth be told, I will never be satisfied with my mother’s recipe ever again.
“I’ll tell you, that was something that David ran with,” Will said. “We wanted to do classic, signature dishes, the stuff that never lets you down. Sloppy Joe is what mom made in a hurry with her Hamburger Helper but he took it to another level.”
The french fries were equally addictive but even with so much gluttony going down, I was relieved to know that Will and David are keeping things healthy by going with local organic fresh foods.
“We gravitate towards the Whole Foods market versus Ralph’s, so we’re trying to keep the dead carbs and the trans-fatty acids away.”
Perhaps one of the best things about The Six aside from having amazing burgers that even Tommy Chong deemed “beyond anything I’ve ever had,” is the origin of the name itself.
Among the early California impressionists at the turn of the century, there was a group of six rouge-ish, rough and tumble guys that during the prohibition times of the twenties, were these natives who were inspired by food, art and wine.
“They had a place called the Chow House, which was mythical to me when I read the story and both Jake and I have been fascinated by these six guys in Oakland (dubbed the ‘Oakland Six’) and their story just struck a chord within us. We really wanted to build a homage and create a sort of mini-Chow House.” He added, “We have a table that’s going to look like the door to the Chow House.”
The decor of the restaurant is incredibly inviting and with the classic rock soundtrack, we felt right at home. We sat in plush seats and all the seats were close together, for easy access to strike up lively conversations with the tables nearby. It also seems the neighborhood has fully embraced The Six as countless customers came by to chat up Will and Jake and thank them for reinvigorating their favorite spot.
They also carry a large selection of craft brews, including the Stone IPA, from the Stone Brewing Company in San Diego. Often among the most highly coveted at various beer competitions, this was a full-bodied beer that packed a powerful punch. They even stock the more aggressive Arrogant Bastard Ale, which by all accounts lives up to its name.
While you’re tangling with the beers, just make sure you save room for the delicious dessert, which is sure to spin your meal in a new direction, much as they’ve done for this Westside location.
“We have a selection of different cookies that we make in house and different ice cream, so people can build their own ice cream sandwiches,” David shared. “Right now we’ve got basil, fennel and banana ice cream. You’re trying the banana with peanut butter cookies and candied pecans on the outside. Doesn't get in any more simple than that.”
"I don’t do this for the money at all," Will said. "I just love to achieve and design and make great food, which I’ve always been fanatical about."
After our visit, we’re of the same feeling about The Six. Will and Jake’s latest project hits all the right notes and seems poised for lasting success. We can safely say that this is a restaurant that you won’t want to miss and we’re proud to add it to our list of sinful food finds.
Surf: thesixrestaurant.com
Go: 10668 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064 // 310.837.6662
Photos by Alex Storch
