Caffe Roma Revitalized by the Legendary Ago
After the incredible culinary delight that we experienced at Ago, I was sure that I was ruined. How could I ever go out for Italian again without reminiscing for Agostino Sciandri’s perfect recipes? Well, my fears were unfounded because Agostino (his friends call him Ago) invited the Sinning Team to come and check out one of the other restaurants in his arsenal, Caffe Roma. If you’re looking for a typical Beverly Hills, ‘flash and splash’ experience, then Caffe Roma will leave you disappointed. If, however, you’re seeking unequivocally delicious Italian fare served in a gorgeous setting, well then, you’ve come to the right place.
Located in the heart of Beverly Hills, the newly renovated restaurant has been open for thirty years, but was only recently taken over by Ago. He is “good friends” with the previous owners and when they decided that they were ready to move on to new things in life, Ago offered to take over.
Just as it was at his other restaurant, Ago, we were immediately greeted by Caffe Roma’s attentive and genuine staff. Most of the servers speak Italian and had no problem going between English and Italian when Ago or Smash would address them in the native tongue. We dined al fresco, under the night sky amongst the white arches of the courtyard, candlelight flickering atop the wooden table. The open concept floorplan weaves indoors with out, the main dining area opening to an eye-pleasing courtyard.
The wine room and cigar lounge in the back also open to the outside and it’s hard to remember that you’re actually in a restaurant, everything feels more like you’re at a personal residence, not a restaurant. “This back area is my favorite part of the restaurant, I like to just sit back here and relax. Arnold (Schwarzenegger) likes it back here too,” Ago reveals. It is this feeling of familiarity, a more intimate setting, that lends itself to storytelling and as the chianti and pinot grigio flowed freely we spoke about the past and Ago’s childhood.
Growing up on a farm in Tuscany, Ago spent his days avoiding the farmwork and instead went out mushroom hunting and catching fish with his bare hands. He feels the most creative at night and prefers to sleep a bit later so that he can stay awake well into the evening. Caffe Roma serves dinner until 1AM on the weekends and midnight throughout the week. “I like the night. I feel awake at night. I’m not a morning person at all,” he laughs.
We started with a lobster salad stuffed with fresh, tender Maine lobster. It was one of the night’s specialty dishes and if you’re lucky enough to dine here on a night when they’re serving it, you’d be a fool to pass on it. The scallops and fresh, mixed mushroom dish came out next and I took my time savoring the seafood, chewing slowly and allowing each bite to melt into my palette.
Ago and his team have foreplay down pat. And if experience has taught me anything, it’s that the warm up round is almost always indicative of the main course. My intuition proved correct as I started into the braised short rib smothered in polenta. You know it’s good when you close your eyes to savor the flavor and slip into your own little world for a moment. Ahhh. Eyes open. Mouth happy.
It’s two hours into our dinner and the courtyard is buzzing with the sounds of wine glasses clinking, conversation between friends and children laughing. From Wednesday through Saturday nights you’ll find a live DJ spinning disco music to a small crowd in the front bar, which is a bit separated from the main dining area and feels more like a lounge.
The sights and sounds of the different areas merge together naturally and this only adds to the feeling that Caffe Roma is more like a large house than a restaurant. It’s reminiscent of that feeling at Thanksgiving when there are people talking and cooking in the kitchen, children laughing and playing in the living room and then a few private conversations scattered about hallways and sitting rooms – all the noise and energy just mixes together and adds to the close-knit feeling of being surrounded by good people.
Schwarzenegger is a regular of the establishment and according to Ago, he favors the tuna salad on his near-weekly visits. I would venture to say that this easy, relaxed vibe, in the sometimes-stuffy Beverly Hills scene, is probably one of the main reasons that Arnold frequents it so much.
You don’t need a reservation. You can make one if you like, but we never turn people away. Walk-ins are always welcome.
A simple pasta with ragu sauce is brought to the table and Ago informs me that they make the pasta in house and that the ragu sauce simmers for three hours prior to being served. With those first bites I am reminded of one of the main reasons that Ago and his restaurants have always been so successful. Simplicity. Simplicity in the food preparation and the ingredients themselves. “I’m not a fusion person, you know. I mean, I can be curious, but I like my food simple,” he says.
Each dish is delicious in its own right and you’re able to enjoy the flavors without having to overthink it. There isn’t an overwhelming mixture or explosion of random, unidentifiable flavors. It’s not about show or wow-factor, it’s simply about great food prepared in the traditional way that’s made sense for hundreds of years. And even when prepared simply, “Food is endless,” says Ago.
We finished our tastebud tour with tiramisu and a warm, doughy apple pie. A perfect ending to another wonderful evening with our new friend, Ago. Whether you come by for the classic Italian dinner, relaxed dining atmospere or to dance in the lounge and enjoy an afterwork cocktail, you won’t be disappointed, Ago’s covered all the bases at the new Caffe Roma.
Photos By: Jacopo Campaiola
