Ago Restaurant Returns The Fine Italian Family Dining Experience To Los Angeles
For many years, the art of the fine Italian dining experience was lost in Los Angeles. Society had succumbed to the restaurant chains and customers were none the wiser, except the people that mattered most, the true Italians. Anyone who has ever had an Italian friend and been to their house for dinner knows exactly what I’m talking about here. But Los Angeles got a much needed shot in the arm both in the cultural and culinary senses when Agostino Sciandri ventured from his native country to the City of Angels in the late 1980’s to open his first restaurant here. Now he’s got four alone in this city and perhaps no place has captured the essence of Italy quite like his West Hollywood namesake staple, Ago, does.
“I’m not a bang, pow, bam kind of guy,” Ago explained about his disdain for Hollywood hotspot restaurants.
I like to let the restaurant and the food speak for itself rather than be a flash in the pan.
After nearly twelve successful years at their West Hollywood home, it’s safe to say that Ago is no secret among the industry’s finest tastemakers but also what sets it apart is Ago’s strong dedication to making his restaurant equally comfortable for families and walk-ins alike.
“Walk-ins are always welcome,” Ago told us. He knows that unlike many of the stuffy, celeb-heavy restaurants in the city, walk-ins actually provide a lot of bread and butter business, no pun intended (ok, maybe a little). When the restaurant first opened, the area on Melrose Avenue where it resides was less than favorable at the time. Like many of his homeland’s finest restaurants, Ago knew that if allowed customers to come in at random, that he could help move forward the family-style atmosphere he longed to cultivate in LA.
Now, twelve years later, the restaurant is looked at fondly for the favorable role it has played in helping to change the culture of the neighborhood.
I must admit, when we entered into the restaurant, I was a bit nervous, as I had been threatened by our resident Italian (and photographer), Jacopo Campaiola, who had promised to take out my kneecaps if I dared take him to an Italian restaurant that couldn’t match the true cuisine of his country. The age-old customs that he continues to experience within his family on a regular basis are so strong that for a native Italiano like Jacopo, he just couldn’t bear to stomach something subpar. He further lamented that there simply was not a plethora of proper Italian restaurants in the city that could do justice to his country’s cooking and that we had lost our way, headed instead for the darkness of the big food chains.
But we sat down with Ago and his general manager, Stefano, and they began to tell stories of the restaurant’s rich history, its dedication to its cuisine and customers, and Jacopo’s fraudulent fears soon vanished, especially after our first course arrived.
A magnificent, wood-fired Pizza Margherita arrived and I soon experienced for myself what Jacopo had told me once: “There’s pizza and then there’s pizza.” In fact, this pizza was perfect for one but they also make bigger sizes as well. Stefano then chimed in:
There’s also never been one pizza that’s been sent back in the twelve years we’ve been open!
It’s this dedication to quality that makes Ago so special, but the pizza just one of the many values on a menu full of them. Ago fully understands today’s tough economic climate and to reflect that, there is a price point for everyone on the menu.
It’s so important, especially in today’s market. We want people to know that they can come here, eat well and still have it be affordable.
Not only does Ago pride itself on their food but also in the atmosphere that’s been carefully created from the moment you enter. Shades of Ago’s native Italy run rampant throughout and here, the hand-picked servers are both experts in the cuisine and at letting you enjoy your time to the fullest extent. The lighting even sets such an intimate vibe and is spotlighted so that each table has the feeling of being in your immediate family's house as opposed to a public restaurant.
We then enjoyed some Burrata with green beans, Prociutto di Parma and a fantastic Insalata di Calamari, where the squid was not fried but served over a beautiful bed of baby greens.
As we ate, we felt more and more at home as Ago told us tales about his son competing in the Tour De France and also how Stefano has helped guide the restaurant from the start.
The good times were further heightened as the main courses arrived. We experienced pure nirvana at the taste of the Gnochi al pesto, in which the potato filled pasta came served in a perfect pesto sauce. It was also a dish where Stefano read our minds when he said ”it’s the best in the city.”
But it was the enormous size and exceptional flavor of the Bistecca alla fiorentina that really blew our minds (and taste buds). Slow cooked in the wood-burning oven, this allowed the flavors of the meat to really come to fruition before hitting our mouths. With a T-bone portion and also a filet, there’s a cut for everyone with this bad boy.
We closed things out on a sweet note with an assorted platter of the restaurant’s tastiest desserts. We highly endorse going this route because that way you’re able to savor all of the offerings, such as the Torta al Chocolato, Tiramisu, Torta ai frutti di bosco and even some cheesecake. It all added up the quite the adventure and was the perfect ending for our Ago experience.
We enjoyed our time meeting Ago and Stefano but perhaps none more so than Jacopo. He had made fast friends with his fellow countrymen and perhaps had found just the place that he and a legion of fellow Italian Angelenos could call home. For Ago and his team keep things simple, with just the best traditional Italian fare, served up in an atmosphere worthy of it’s country of origin. We can safely say they’ve succeeded in every way imaginable and we’re happy to have a slice of Italy in the heart of Los Angeles.
Photos By: Jacopo Campaiola
